How to Wash a Raincoat

Last Updated on October 4, 2026 by Umar Farooq

Wash it, and more often than you think. A rain jacket that has stopped beading water is usually dirty rather than worn out, so the wash is the repair. Use a little liquid detergent or a technical cleaner, warm water, two rinses, minimal spin — then tumble dry warm and keep tumbling for twenty minutes after it is dry, because heat is what reactivates the water-repellent finish. How to wash a raincoat is a maintenance question, not a housekeeping one.

Every other garment on this site comes out cleaner and no more useful. This one comes out working again.

Wetting out is a dirt problem before it is a coating problem

The outer face of a rain jacket carries a durable water repellent finish — the DWR — whose job is to make water bead and roll off. When it stops, water soaks into the face fabric and the jacket feels like it is leaking when the membrane underneath is perfectly intact. REI puts it cleanly: “When water soaks into and spreads across the surface of the fabric, it prevents the breathable layer from working. This is a sign that the durable water repellent (DWR) surface treatment has been compromised” (REI — bead up, don’t wet out).

Compromised usually means covered. Nikwax, who make the cleaners, say “Most times, it’s dirt and crud that are covering the water-repellent coating, making your jacket soak up water” (Nikwax — clean and re-waterproof your rain jacket). Body oils, sunscreen and road film all do it, and none of them look like dirt.

Beading, wetting out, and what each one means for a rain jacket A waterproof jacket has two separate systems. The membrane underneath keeps liquid water out and lets water vapour escape, and washing does not damage it. The durable water repellent finish on the outer face makes rain stand up in beads and roll off. When that finish is working, the face fabric stays dry, the membrane can still pass vapour outwards, and the jacket breathes. When the finish is covered by body oils, sunscreen, road grime or leftover detergent, water spreads flat across the face fabric instead of beading. That is called wetting out. The soaked outer layer blocks vapour from escaping, so sweat condenses inside and the wearer concludes the jacket is leaking when the membrane is intact. The first fix is a wash with a residue-free cleaner followed by tumble drying, because heat reorients the repellent finish. Only if water still fails to bead after that does the jacket need a new repellent treatment applied. Same jacket, two states Beading: finish clean vapour still escapes Wetting out: finish covered water spread flat vapour trapped, feels like a leak

How to wash a raincoat in five steps

Gore-Tex publish the most specific numbers available for any membrane, and they are a reasonable default for anything similar. Zip everything: “Before washing, zip the front, pockets and pit zips completely.” Wash warm — “Machine wash (105°F/40°C)” — with “a small amount of liquid detergent”, and “Don’t use powder detergents, fabric softeners, stain removers, or bleach.” Then “Rinse twice and minimize spinning”, with “400 rpm or lower” named as the figure that avoids creasing, and dry it on “a warm gentle cycle”, never hot (Gore-Tex — outerwear care).

Before any of that, do the step REI lists first and almost nobody does: “clean any residual detergent from your washing machine soap dispenser.” Softener sitting in a drawer from last week will coat the jacket this week — the same mechanism that wrecks a towel, covered in fabric softener vs dryer sheets.

The twenty minutes of heat almost nobody does

This is the step that separates a shell that works from one that does not. Gore-Tex: “Once dry, tumble dry for a further 20 minutes to reactivate the durable water repellent (DWR) treatment.” No dryer available means an iron on a gentle setting through a cloth, no steam. And if water still will not bead afterwards, that is the test: “If water doesn’t bead and run off after washing, you’ll need to reapply a durable water repellent (DWR).”

One disagreement worth naming rather than smoothing. Nikwax, writing about their own wash-in treatment, say “Nikwax does not require heat for activation, so you’re good to go either way.” Both pages are live and both are correct — Gore-Tex are describing the factory finish, Nikwax their replacement for it. Applied a Nikwax product, follow Nikwax. Otherwise the twenty minutes is doing real work.

FAQ

Can you put a raincoat in the washing machine?

For most technical rain jackets this is the recommended method, not a risk. Coated and PU-backed rainwear often specifies cold and no dryer instead, so the label still decides.

Does washing a raincoat ruin the waterproofing?

The opposite. Washing removes the oils and grime that stop water beading. What ruins repellency is residue: powder detergent, fabric softener, or leftovers in the dispenser drawer.

Can you tumble dry a rain jacket?

Usually yes, warm and gentle, and it is the step that restores the repellent finish. Never high heat, and check the label — some shells with no outer face fabric are excluded from the dryer entirely.

How often should you wash a rain jacket?

When it stops beading or starts to smell, rather than on a schedule. Underwashing a shell is far more common than overwashing one.

Can you use normal detergent on a raincoat?

A small amount of plain liquid is acceptable to both Gore-Tex and REI. Nikwax’s warning is that household detergents “can leave behind residues that attract water” — which is the exact problem you are washing to fix.

A clean shell is a working shell

Your rain jacket is not asking to be left alone. It wants washing, drying and reheating on a rhythm, and one that has never been washed is not pristine — it is dirty and quietly failing. Once there is insulation behind the membrane the rules change, and how to wash a winter coat picks that up, with how to wash a puffer jacket covering the drying argument in full.

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